Nikki Cascone, 38 years old, opened Octavia's Porch in the East Village and Michael Psilakis, 42, launched Fish Tag on the Upper West Side within days of each other. Both chefs are borrowing from the Jewish canon without going kosher. They've modernized kreplach and smoked fish, giving buzz to Bubbe's best.
Pictures and more after the jump
—Melanie Grayce West
—Melanie Grayce West
Wall Street Journal
January 6, 2011
Octavia's Porch
The concept: A global bistro adapted to Jewish culture. "Maybe people have been a little bit afraid to do Jewish food unless they went deli," said Ms. Cascone.
On the menu: Challah, "schmears," chicken liver salad, brisket and latkes. Gefilte fish, which the chef compares to fish mousse, gets a good dose of lime and fresh horseradish. Kreplach, traditionally placed in soup, are here prepared in a pan with onions and garlic and served with a sweet soy sauce.
To drink: A pickle martini and a boozy egg cream.
The cool factor: "Making chicken liver salad cool is a challenge," said Ms. Cascone. "I couldn't sell it in my last restaurant and now I can't keep it in stock here. I guess I just had to add red grapes, celery and matzo."
Local influences: Russ & Daughters and Second Avenue Deli. Putting the restaurant close to the Lower East Side was a "no brainer," she said. "It was important for the integrity."
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